Papa Christo's Taverna has been Burbank's most reliable Greek kitchen since 2005, named by owner Christos Papadopoulos for his grandfather who ran a taverna on the island of Crete.
The spanakopita is the entry point and the first test. Phyllo that shatters properly when cut, a filling of spinach, feta, and dill that is wet enough to be creamy and firm enough to hold its shape — it is the Greek appetizer done correctly and remains one of the best in the area.
The saganaki is a table ritual. Kasseri cheese, pan-seared to the point of golden crust, brought to the table where a server flames it with brandy and announces "Opa" with a sincerity that the occasion deserves. It is theater and it is dinner.
The lamb souvlaki — marinated overnight, grilled over charcoal, served on skewers with tzatziki and warm pita — is the dish that most clearly reflects the Cretan tradition Papadopoulos inherited. The moussaka is made with the correct ratio of eggplant to béchamel, and the baking time is taken seriously.
Happy hour here — half-off spanakopita and saganaki with $8 house wine on weekday afternoons — is one of the better value propositions in Burbank. The outdoor patio is pleasant in the evenings, and the service has the warm urgency that good Greek hospitality always produces.
